Balocchi di Colore Toscana 2020 Bibi Graetz

No1

James Suckling
96/100 punten
A structured and linear red with black cherries and blackberries with some mineral undertones. Full-bodied, very long and racy. Lovely and pure with wonderful acidity. Sangiovese plot on the hillsides above Fiesole. New wine. Needs four or five years to come around. About 2,000 bottles made. Try after 2027.

Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate
95/100 punten
Compared to the N. 3 (made with Colorino), which is darker in color and richer in concentration, this wine reveals a ruby color with extra shine and more of that characteristic Sangiovese transparency. The Bibi Graetz 2020 Podere di Vincigliata Balocchi di Colore N. 1 (made with 100% Sangiovese) offers punchy aromas of dark cherry and raspberry tart. This wine presents a very lifted or vertical bouquet with rose, floral aromas and lilac. It is silky and fine on the palate with a glossy texture brought on by balanced acidity. This is a single-vineyard expression of the grape that Bibi has dedicated most of his career to thus far. Only 2,000 bottles were made.

This is an impressive and controversial set of new releases from the Maverick of Fiesole (Tuscany), Bibi Graetz. I found both his new releases of Colore and Testamatta to be exceptional. Thanks to a new winery (built cleverly inside an old hotel) and beautiful new vineyard sites, some with old vines, these are surely the best wines he has made. Bibi is more committed than ever to creating expressions of elegance with Sangiovese and local Tuscan grapes. He is also presenting three new wines this year as part of his Balocchi series. “Balocchi” is an Italian word for “playfulness” or “game making,” but it also implies a hint of mischievousness. The three wines are what he calls a “component tasting” because each headlines an important indigenous grape from Tuscany. Balocchi N. 8 is Canaiolo, N. 1 is Sangiovese and N. 3 is Colorino. “I was inspired by the real wines of Tuscany made with old vines like we saw in the 1940s and 1950s,” says Bibi Graetz. Tuscany can stand up to the best wines of the world, and its true winemaking DNA is found in these grapes that were sadly abandoned and replanted when Italy embraced industrial winemaking in the 1970s and 1980s. This is my tribute to those grapes, and in a sense, these wines take us back years to where we started.” The three Balocchi wines do indeed showcase elegant expressions of each grape. However, I am disappointed in the outrageous pricing that makes these wines so utterly unaffordable and unobtainable. The pricing philosophy is difficult to understand. There are 2,000 bottles of each, or 6,000 bottles in the entire series.

Decanter
99/100 punten
One of three new single-vineyard wines from Bibi Graetz; this is a selection of the oldest Sangiovese vines on clay loam with galestro soils at an altitude of 250m in Vincigliata, home to the family's historical vineyard. No 1 refers to the first vineyard planted, comprising vines more than 50 years old, and features a label designed by Bibi's first daughter Margherita. Grapes are sorted twice before being destemmed, softly pressed and placed in open-top barriques. Spontaneous fermentation occurs with indigenous yeasts before the wine is moved into old barriques up to 20 years old for malolactic fermentation and ageing for two years before being bottled. An incredibly compelling and inspiring wine with a flawless aromatic complexity - a nose full of strawberries, violets, roses, milk chocolate, lavender, coffee, cherries, cinnamon and exotic spices - beautiful scents that put you squarely in Tuscany. A scintillating texture follows on the palate, thrilling with such liveliness, energy and poise. Finessed, but completely characterful, the tannins gliding the fruit flavours seamlessly from start to finish with such sleek, effortless forward motion. A hint of succulent sweetness comes from stewed strawberries alongside perfumed flowers and dried herbal accents. Layered and pixelated, it's intense in its complexity but graceful with freshness throughout. Such a pure expression of time, place and grape - honest and profound. I love it. Just three barrels produced, sold via the Place de Bordeaux from 2nd March.

No3

James Suckling
97/100 punten
This is a wonderfully structured and pure colorino with dark fruits, dark chocolate, lavender, and orange blossom. A very unique wine. So fresh and energetic. Vivid. Goes on for minutes. Elegance with structure and length. Compacted and very long. A new single plot vineyard from above the Tuscan town of Fiesole. Try after 2027.

Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate
94/100 punten
The 2020 Podere di Vincigliata Balocchi di Colore N. 3 is one of three new releases from Bibi Graetz. It reveals a dark ruby color and an immediate blast of freshness and energy. Colorino is the protagonist in this 2,000-bottle release. It is one of Tuscany’s traditional blending grapes. This is the style Bibi has been aiming for, and many years of fruit sourcing (à la garagiste winemaker) has finally paid off, enabling him to really understand the best growing sites for each variety he works with. These grapes come from the Vincigliata Vineyard with 50-year-old vines in limestone clay soils with schistic galestro. The wine is medium-rich in texture, but the acidity and the freshness of the primary fruit is the main takeaway. It finishes with long, silky tannins..

Decanter
97/100 punten
One of three new single-vineyard wines from Bibi Graetz; this is 100% Colorino from vines of up to 50 years old, planted in the family's historical vineyard in Vincigliata on clay loam soils with galestro at an altitude of 250m. No 3 refers to the third vineyard planted in the 1970s when Bibi's parents were looking for blending grapes to add power and structure to their Chianti wines. The label was designed by Bibi's third daughter Ingrid. Grapes are sorted twice before they are destemmed, softly pressed and placed in open-top barriques. Spontaneous fermentation occurs via indigenous yeasts after which the wine is moved into old barriques up to 20 years old for malolactic fermentation and ageing for two years before being bottled. Rather than give this over to a blend, Bibi has, over the years, kept back a portion of Colorino to let it shine on its own and this new bottling is remarkable. A much darker colour than the other two new releases, this is dark violet with scarlet nuances, translucent but almost dark plum in colour which correlates to the aromatic profile - a spicy hoisin plum element, with white and Szechuan pepper, blueberries, graphite, salty minerality and herbal scents. Wide and round on the palate, ample, generous, broad and muscular but so velvety with fine-grained tannins that fill the mouth entirely giving the expansive frame while the centre is filled by a moreish juicy acidity that gives the bounce and the fun. There is both power and tension which combine to a thrilling and captivating whole. A knock-out wine that deserves to be shared among friends. Just three barrels produced, sold via the Place de Bordeaux from 2nd March.

No8

James Suckling
95/100 punten
This pure canaiolo shows freshness with lemon peel, stone and white pepper. Peppercorn undertones. Medium body. Tangy and spicy on the finish. Dried flowers, like rose petals. From a single vineyard plot above Fiesole. Drink or hold.

Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate
91/100 punten
A pure expression of Canaiolo, the Bibi Graetz 2020 Podere dell’Olmo Balocchi di Colore N. 8 is a very perfumed red wine with a lifted bouquet that is vibrant and charged with energy. The wine shows cherry, red fruits, hints of spice and white pepper. Fruit comes from the 90-hectare Olmo Vineyard with alberello and guyot-trained vines and a mix of sandy and clay soils with schistic galestro rock. The vines are up to 50 years old. Balocchi di Colore N. 8 (with 2,000 bottles made) shows a dense texture with extra fruit weight on the palate. There is ample freshness and lots of red and purple fruits. “In the Olmo Vineyard we have the wind, the elements and the terroir to create very fresh wines,” says Bibi Graetz.

Decanter
98/100 punten
One of three new single-vineyard wines from Bibi Graetz; this is 100% Canaiolo from the most recently acquired, 12ha high-elevation vineyard plot in Olmo, from vines between 25 and 50 years old on sandy-clay loam soils full of galestro. No 8 refers to the terroir parcel with Bibi's eight year old son Ludovico creating the label. Grapes are sorted twice before they are destemmed, softly pressed and placed in open-top barriques. Spontaneous fermentation occurs via indigenous yeasts after which the wine is moved into old barriques up to 20 years old for malolactic fermentation and ageing for two years before being bottled. Gentle, light and joyful, this wine has an almost aerial quality in its presentation, a crystalline purity to the fruit profile and overall uber charm. The nose is a masterclass in aromatics comprising patchouli, wild strawberries, dried wood and flowers, baked and sour cherries, green pepper and roses. Sharp, sleek and straight on the palate but delivered with energy and excitement. Each individual element is so detailed and precise with mouthcoating tannins that give the frame, angles and structure while the bright, high acidity gives a sense of liveliness and purity. The length and freshness are incredible and it's a wine that just makes you smile. An extremely engaging and drinkable wine. Just three barrels produced, sold via the Place de Bordeaux from 2nd March.