2023 | Frankrijk | Bordeaux, Margaux

Château Margaux 2023 Margaux 1e Grand Cru Classé

  • Château Margaux 2023 Margaux 1e Grand Cru Classé
  • Château Margaux 2023 Margaux 1e Grand Cru Classé
  • Château Margaux 2023 Margaux 1e Grand Cru Classé
  • + 1
en-primeur

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Verder lezen
  • Smaakprofiel
    Complex, krachtig & vol
  • Druivenras
    Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot
  • Land & Regio
    Frankrijk, Bordeaux, Margaux
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Proefnotitie
Specificaties
Awards

“Weightless. One of the wines of the vintage.” - James Suckling, 99-100 punten

Château Margaux staat in de gelijknamige appellatie op eenzame hoogte. Deze jaargang heeft maar liefst vijf keer (potentieel) 100 punten gekregen en wijnschrijvers komen woorden tekort. Wat valt er te zeggen over een schaarse wijn van dit uitzonderlijke kaliber?

Aan superlatieven in ieder geval geen gebrek. Een greep uit de recensies:
- “A perfect reflection of this unique terroir.” - Falstaff, 100 punten
- “Weightless. One of the wines of the vintage.” - James Suckling, 99-100 punten
- “Exceptionally good quality, and a real pleasure to taste” - Jane Anson, 98 punten
- “It's hard to find a wine in 2023 that has this much density and depth, with sweet tannins and so much charm” - Jeb Dunnuck, 96-100 punten

Van al die superlatieven - en dat zijn er nogal wat - is onze favoriete beschrijving van de jaargang afkomstig van Jeff Leve (The Wine Cellar Insider, 98-100 punten). Tegenover het gewicht en de intensiteit van 2022, schrijft hij, staan in 2023 de “puurheid, finesse, lengte, levendigheid en sensuele textuur” van de wijn. Het is de spijker op zijn kop en vertelt behalve over de wijn ook iets over de jaargang.

Het uitzonderlijke raffinement van Château Margaux in 2023 is opgehangen aan een stevige, maar haast gewichtloze structuur. Compact, maar niet vermoeiend en er zit spanning in het glas door speelse tannine. Door de combinatie van rijp fruit (kersen, pruimen, en fijne zuren krijgt de wijn een levendigheid en diepgang, die alleen is voorbehouden aan de grote wijnen van de jaargang. Vinous noemt Château Margaux “the least showy of the First Growths, but it is often the most refined” en specifiek deze jaargang is “sublime”.

Dat heeft niet alleen te maken met geweldig terroir, maar ook met kundig wijnmaken en de klimatologische omstandigheden. Jaargang 2023 was heet en relatief droog voor Château Margaux, wat zorgde voor rijp fruit. Decanter merkte op: “You also don’t sense the heat, but the fruit is ripe, with freshness all the way through.” Korte perioden met welkome regenval op de juiste momenten zorgden voor verlichting: het hield de wijnstokken levendig en de druiven fris. Daardoor staan er fijne zuren tegenover het sensuele, rijpe fruit.

Sinds 1977 is Château Margaux in handen van de Griekse familie Mentzelopoulos. Zij riepen de hulp in van wijnmaker Philippe Bascaules en begonnen grootschalige projecten - in tijden van crisis, nota bene - om de plek van het gerenommeerde château te consolideren. Jeb Dunnuck benadrukte; “Not enough can be said about the genius of Philippe Bascaules and the Mentzelopoulos family, who continue to produce sensational wine after sensational wine.” Het is immers knap werk om een van de mooiste wijnen van Bordeaux te maken, maar haast ondenkbaar om jaar in, jaar uit tot de absolute buitencategorie te behoren. Château Margaux 2023 is een waar kelderstuk en mocht u (thuis of bij ons) nog geen kelder hebben, dan is deze wijn de reden om eraan te beginnen.
WijnsoortRode Wijn
En PrimeurJa
LandFrankrijk
DruivenrasCabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot
RegioBordeaux, Margaux
SmaakprofielComplex, krachtig & vol
Jaargang2023
Flesinhoud0.75
Alcoholgehalte14 %
ClassificatieAOC Margaux
Op dronk vanaf2030
Op dronk tot2065
AllergenenSulfieten
AfsluitingKurk
Art.nr.E108101
Awards
  • Château Margaux 2023 Margaux 1e Grand Cru Classé
  • Château Margaux 2023 Margaux 1e Grand Cru Classé
  • Château Margaux 2023 Margaux 1e Grand Cru Classé
  • Château Margaux 2023 Margaux 1e Grand Cru Classé

Falstaff
100/100 punten
Deep dark ruby, opaque core, purple reflections, delicate edge brightening. Fine oak savouriness, delicate hints of nougat and clove, dark forest berries, cassis, liquorice, floral touch, delicate tangerine zest, seductive bouquet. Juicy, highly elegant, ripe heart cherry, silky, supporting tannins, lively, finely structured, a hint of chocolate and blackberry on the finish, harmonious, balanced, mineral-salty, lingers for a very long time. A perfect reflection of this unique terroir.

James Suckling
(99-100)/100 punten
The aromas in this young Margaux are so primary, reminding me of grape must fermenting in the vat, then turning to perfumes and flowers. Violets and roses. Full-bodied but it comes across as so agile and bright, with vivid acidity that makes the wine crunchy and linear. As Alexis, one of the owners of Margaux said, this really shows the DNA of the estate. Weightless. One of the wines of the vintage. 3.6 pH. Blend of 89% cabernet sauvignon, 5% merlot, 4% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot.

Antonio Galloni (Vinous)
(97-100)/100 punten
The 2023 Château Margaux is fabulous. Sensual, silky and exceptionally polished, the 2023 Château Margaux is shaping up to be a classic. Seamless, silky tannins wrap around a core of dark red/purplish fruit. Hints of spice, new leather, menthol, licorice and rose petal fill out the glass. There's a bit of new oak peeking through today, but that won't be an issue in a few years' time. Only Bordeaux can produce wines that offer so much flavor intensity at a low alcohols. Margaux is the least showy of the First Growths, but it is often the most refined. The 2023 is sublime.

The Wine Cellar Inside 
(98-100)/100 punten
In competition for wine of the vintage, with a single swirl, you find roses violets, lilacs, black, with red cherries, espresso, cocoa, and boysenberries in the haunting aromatic profile. On the palate, the wine is silky, velvety, energetic, and lively. Instead of the weight and intensity found in the 2022, the 2023 focuses on its purity, refinement, length, vivacity, and sensual textures. The seamless finish resonates for 60 seconds, leaving you with lingering waves of incredibly sweet, and pure cherries. Part of the reason for the success of the vintage at Margaux is due to the combination of the amount of rain, and even more importantly, the timing of the rains, which helped the vines reach a better level of maturity. It is interesting to note that macerations were slow, and easy, with some vats taking 28 days due to the lower ABV levels. The wine blends 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. 13.1% ABV. 3.61 pH, 15% press wine. 41% of the crop was placed into the Grand Vin. Picking took place September 11-October 6. The length of the harvest was due to intermittent periods of rain during the harvest, so picking stopped and started, which is another key to the success in 2023. Drink from 2030-2065.

Jeb Dunnuck 
(96-100)/100 punten
The 2023 Château Margaux is clearly one of the greats in the vintage, and it actually reminds me a touch of the 1996, if not better. Revealing a deep purple hue, it has an incredible bouquet of cassis and blue fruits interwoven with classic Margaux floral, sandalwood, spice, and graphite aromatics. It's hard to find a wine in 2023 that has this much density and depth, with sweet tannins and so much charm. The blend is 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and the rest Petit Verdot, all of which will see 20 months in new barrels. Not enough can be said about the genius of Philippe Bascaules and the Mentzelopoulos family, who continue to produce sensational wine after sensational wine.

Neal Martin (Vinous)
(97-99)/100 punten
The 2023 Château Margaux, which contains 15% vin de presse, is quintessential Château Margaux. It immediately blossoms in the glass with irresistible crushed violets on the nose, instantly demanding attention—you will gladly give it. Exquisitely defined and very focused with supremely well integrated oak, this is blessed with laser-like precision. The palate is silky smooth on the entry, perhaps a little feistier than expected thanks to a liberal sprinkling of black pepper. Quite structured (like the Pavillon Rouge) and gentle, you can almost overlook its grip. It finishes with a concentrated, graphite-tinged finish that lingers long in the mouth. This First Growth will require ten years in bottle to really show what it is capable of. 

Lisa Perrotti-Brown (The Wine Independent)
(97-99)/100 punten
The 2023 Chateau Margaux, accounting for 41% of this year's crop, is deep garnet-purple in color. A little shy to begin, it needs some swirling before notes of black cherries, blackcurrant pastilles, and anise emerge from the glass, leading to suggestions of fragrant soil, lilacs, and cardamom with a touch of iron ore. The medium-bodied palate is elegantly crafted, with fabulous tension creating an exhilarating sense of energy in the mouth, offset by firm fine-grained tannins to support the vibrant red and black berry layers, finishing long and perfumed. So fragrant and graceful, this could only be Chateau Margaux! The blend is 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot, with pH 3.60. "There is a little more Cabernet Franc this year. More and more has been making it into the First Wine. We have been grafting over some vines to Cabernet Franc and planting more.

Jane Anson (Inside Bordeaux)
98/100 punten
Vibrant peony and ruby red colour, this hums with movement and energy through the palate, a complex bloom of lavendar and white rose flowers, fresh and dense at the same time. Classical Margaux, with the savoury quality of the best wines of the year, a ton of fine tannins with a reserved sculpted architecture. The drinkability of this vintage is such a welcome return, and this is exceptionally good quality, and a real pleasure to taste. Superb winemaking from Philippe Bascaules. 41hl/h yield (compared to 25hl/h last year), 41% of the production in this 1st wine.

Decanter
98/100 punten
Quite a herbal nose, full of blackcurrant leaf and bramble fruit, dark chocolate, violets - subtle, not shouting, but interesting. Round and ripe, a nice weight in the mouth, silky, but also like crushed velvet, mouthwatering acidity, so juicy and clean, a lovely texture in the mouth. Not chewy at all, but there’s depth here, a cushioning to the palate with incredible juiciness. Charming, gentle yet lively. It's is just so appealing but this will benefit from oak ageing too. Carefully made, tannins are wonderful and the acidity doesn’t stick out. You also don’t sense the heat, but the fruit is ripe, with freshness all the way through. A wonderful wine in 2023. 2% Petit Verdot completes the blend with 4% Cabernet Franc, the highest percentage ever in the blend. 41% grand vin production. 3.6pH, 15% press. Officially certified organic as of 2023. Ageing 100% new oak, 18 months.

William Kelley (Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate)
(95-97)/100 punten
The 2023 Château Margaux shows considerable promise, unfurling in the glass with aromas of cassis, violets, spring flowers and sweet tobacco, framed by a deft touch of new oak. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, it's taut, concentrated and classically structured, with sweet, refined tannins and lively acids, concluding with a long, mouthwatering finish. It's a blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot that attained 13% alcohol.

Jancis Robinson
17.5/20 punten
Energy and intrigue but more reticent than Pavillon. Lots of charm on the palate with attractive fruit, silky tannins and freshness. A certain drive and persistence but perhaps not quite the depth of top years.