92-94: The Château Pontet-Canet 2014 was picked between 29 September and 10 October, the 10th biodynamically. It is initially quite reticent, a little broody in the glass. However, it unfolds with each swirl revealing a very pure and I feel, a more contained and classic bouquet compared to the 2013: blackberry, graphite, minerals and a touch of incense. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, quite tensile tannin. The acidity is very well judged – crescendo of flavors that lead to a precise, lightly spiced, quite vivacious finish. What I like here is that it is very Pauillac, in the sense that I feel that recent vintages were flirting with deviating too far away from what a typical Pauillac ought to be. This is unmistakable in terms of where it comes from, but there it retains that sense of focus and mineralité that ensures this is a total success for the vintage.
94: After a tricky vintage in 2013, when Pontet-Canet misjudged the market too, this is an impressive return to form for this biodynamic property. Bold, concentrated and built to last, it’s smoky, compact and powerful, with classy oak usage, plush black fruits, savoury tannins and very good length. (13.5%; 65CS, 30Me, 4CF, 1PV)