Kumeu River Mate's Vineyard Chardonnay 2023

James Suckling
97/100

Very steely and floral, with brightness and impressive aromas of honeysuckle, lemongrass and just a touch of cream. Medium- to full-bodied with layered and creamy phenolics that give a lovely, almost velvety texture to the wine, and then the end is so crisp and minerally. Driven at the end. Needs time to come together. This will be so complex in three to four years. Best after 2027.

Jancis Robinson MW
17,5/20 punten
 "A 2.49-ha vineyard planted in 1990 with Mendoza clone. There is some leafroll which delays ripening a little. Hand-picked. Whole-bunch pressed. Spontaneous fermentation. 100% barrel-fermented in used French oak. 100% malo and 11months ’maturation in barrel. Bigger in dimension than the others. Sweeter on the initial impression and then it tightens up. Less obviously rich than some previous vintages, presumably because of the wetter vintage. Still quite closed but with great density and a savoury finish. You can almost taste little particles in it! Should last extremely well.

James Halliday
95/100 punten
"Kumeu River made its name as a chardonnay producer of note with Maté its flagship and, even in difficult vintages, provenance shines through. Given the wet season with reduced yields this and the suite of all its chardonnays are lighter framed – so no new oak used. This is complex and if you can’t resist opening one now – it really needs more bottle age – do let it breathe. It’s flinty, a little funky, savoury with Meyer lemon and finger lime, dabs of ginger cream with a millefeuille of texture but whoa, tight and racy thanks to the mouth-watering acidity. A wine with energy and, as usual, contemplative. Take the time to enjoy its detail."