Kumeu River Rays Road Chardonnay 2020
Voor wie verknocht is aan top Chablis
2020 is nog maar de derde jaargang van deze wijn. De eerste jaargang (2018) werd meteen gekozen tot Wine of the Week door Jancis Robinson MW. "If only all white burgundy offered this accessibility. I'm talking both price and taste." We voelen volop met Jancis mee! Vanwege de korte historie is de wijn nog wat minder bekend dan de andere Single Vineyard cuvées van Kumeu River en daardoor niet veel duurder dan de Estate Chardonnay, maar afgaande op de briljante jaargang 2020 zal dat zeker niet lang meer duren.
'From a limestone, north-facing, dry-farmed hillside at 180 m. Spontaneous fermentation. Aged in old French oak. Neat and well integrated, quite restrained. And already very accessible though with light, fine tannins and quite opulent fruit on the front palate. Sprightly. Lemon-pastille flavour. Very long. Beautifully made.' (Jancis Robinson, 17/20)
Meer positieve pers onder het tabblad Awards.
From a limestone, north-facing, dry-farmed hillside at 180 m. Spontaneous fermentation. Aged in old French oak. Neat and well integrated, quite restrained. And already very accessible though with light, fine tannins and quite opulent fruit on the front palate. Sprightly. Lemon-pastille flavour. Very long. Beautifully made.
This is a fuller style from Hawke’s Bay and quite different from the rest of the Kumeu range of chardonnays. Bold, ripe peaches dominate the nose and palate. The texture is impressively silky and smooth. Very fleshy and complete. Impressive.
Bob Campbell MW
Gently aromatic chardonnay with butterscotch, grapefruit marmalade, peach and oyster-shell supported by fruity acidity. Impressive wine from a top vintage. Accessible now but with the potential to evolve further in the next few years.
Cameron Douglas MS
Warm and richly scented bouquet. Has ripe fruit and freshness with slightly warmer fruits at the core, red apple and yellow peach, moments of quince and sweet meyer lemon, grapefruit and a hint of tropical fruit. The palate reflects the bouquet exactly, driven by the core of fruit then some quieter layers of lees and oak. Fresh and lively acid line, some very fine skin tannins and satin cream texture. Lovely balance and length. Drinking well now with warmth and generosity. Holds true to the KR style of purity and freshness, length and elegance. Best from 2022 through 2028+. Older barrel with some new barrel-ferment complexity.
In 2017, Kumeu River spread its wings to Hawke's Bay, purchasing Rays Road, a site on limestone at 180 meters in altitude. The 2020 Chardonnay Rays Road displays a fuller style, offering breadth and a smooth embrace. There are subtle aromatics – this is Chardonnay, after all – suggesting Golden Delicious apples meeting beeswax and shortbread, and modest concentration and length. The wine’s appeal is in its textural, mouth-coating finish.